We’ve all stayed at the Chelsea Hotel, though most of us have done so only in our minds, through such cultural artifacts as Leonard Cohen’s “Chelsea Hotel No. 2,” Bob Dylan’s “Sara,” Nico’s “Chelsea Girls,” Andy Warhol’s eponymous film that includes the Nico song, or Patti Smith’s Just Kids, which tells of the time she spent there with Robert Mapplethorpe. Enthusiasts of the work of everyone from Janis Joplin to Arthur C. Clarke to Miloš Forman to Dylan Thomas to Mark Twain may not know that they, too, thereby enjoy an indirect connection to that New York institution, which has stood on West 23rd Street since its construction in 1884.
At that time, it also stood quite tall, looming over every other apartment building in the city, and indeed over most of the rest of Manhattan. Nowadays, however, the cultural profile of the Chelsea Hotel (officially, and less coolly, the Hotel Chelsea) is higher than its physical one ever was.
Its reputation as a refuge for artists dates to the management of Stanley Bard, who inherited the business from his father in 1964. Already, a degree of dilapidation in the building itself, as well as the surrounding neighborhood, kept rents low enough to attract impecunious creative types. Bard displayed enough generosity to artists that, before long, Andy Warhol’s factory had more or less moved in.
The Chelsea’s latest transformation began in the mid-two-thousands with a series of takeovers and renovations not necessarily welcomed by the existing long-term residents, who appreciated the hotel precisely for its seeming imperviousness to gentrification. In the new Architectural Digest video above, current owner Sean MacPherson gives a tour of the luxurious Chelsea of the twenty-twenties, all of whose spaces have been meticulously curated to evoke its storied past. In its bar (with cigarette burns carefully preserved) guests can order a cocktail called the Two Dylans, named in homage to both Bob and Thomas; in the basement, they can choose from the largest selection of Japanese whiskey at a new restaurant named after former resident Teruko Yokoi. The experience of a nineteen-sixties New York bohemian is now available to all of us — or at least those of us who can come up with $500 per night.
If you want to revisit the hotel during its pre-restoration heyday, you can watch the 1981 documentary below. It will let you get glimpses of Andy Warhol, William S. Burroughs, Nico, and more.
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Based in Seoul, Colin Marshall writes and broadcasts on cities, language, and culture. He’s the author of the newsletter Books on Cities as well as the books 한국 요약 금지 (No Summarizing Korea) and Korean Newtro. Follow him on the social network formerly known as Twitter at @colinmarshall.














